PAVE EDGE® INSTALLATION

MATERIALS NEEDED

Base Material: (check with local supplier) (3/4)" dense graded aggregate including particle sizes down to fine dust. 1" depth of compacted base weighs approximately 1200 lbs per 100 sf (9.3 sq meters). Always add 5-10% for edges and miscellaneous areas.
Sand: (coarse concrete sand or other suitable bedding material) 1" depth, approximately 900 lbs per 100 sf. Figure extra 5% for jointing sand.
Pavers: Do not forget to factor any Soldier Course (bordering) pavers in your calculations. You will need to know how many linear feet of project perimeter.
Edge Restraint: PAVE EDGE® RIGID and/or FLEXIBLE
Smooth Steel Spikes: (10" length x (3/8)" diameter)

TOOLS NEEDED

• Grade stakes
• Inverted spray paint
• Masons string (twine)
• Stiff bristle street broom
• 3-5 pound hammer
• Hard tooth garden rake
• Chalk line
• 25' tape measure
• Small pry bar
• 4' Level
• Wheelbarrow
• Shovel
• Trowel
• Marker
• Garden Hose
• 1" diameter sand screed guides (pipe, wood, etc.)
• Sand screed board 6-8' (length of a 2"x 4" or 2"x 6")

• 3 HP to 5 HP plate compactors (not a jumping jack)
• Mason diamond saw
• PAVERSPLITTER

DESIGN & LAYOUT

Layout project with spray paint and measure project area. Determine square footage (multiplying length x width = square footage); add 5-10% for breakage and cutting. Measure lineal feet of open edges, those not up against a permanent structure such as a house, etc. This will indicate lineal footage of PAVE EDGE® required. Bring a drawing with dimensions to your supplier and they will help calculate the amount of materials needed.

Square the project to a permanent structure; determine a perpendicular line using the 3-4-5 triangle method. Establish parallel lines by measuring outward from the perpendicular line to establish boundaries. Drive stakes into the ground every 4'-6' and at the corners, 12" outside of the planned edge of the pavers.

EXCAVATION

Using a flat shovel, cut evenly to remove sod/dirt to a uniform depth of at least 7?" (18cm) to allow room for 2?" (6cm) paver, ¾" (20mm) compacted sand, minimum of 4" (10cm) compacted crushed stone base (more if soil is very soft). If the house is of new construction, there might be potential for settling next to the foundation. We suggest increasing base thickness to 6" (15cm) or total excavation of 9" (23cm) within 3' (1m) of new foundation. Excavation should be 6" (15cm) wider on sides where PAVE EDGE® is to be used.

BASE PREPARATION

Base preparation is very important. By taking more time and effort in preparing the base, the project will look better and last longer.

Use either ¾" (19mm) or ½" (13mm) dense graded base material that includes sizes down to a fine dust. This material is easier to compact and will create a tight knit surface.

Method of Compaction
Run plate compactor over the excavated soil (making sure no soil gets stuck to the bottom of the plate tamper). Each pass should overlap the previous one by about 4". Spread gravel base material evenly in 3" lifts. If material is dry and dusty, use a garden hose to wet it down (do not get too wet); this helps the base compact faster and is easier to rake. Start compacting at the outer perimeter, overlapping each pass and working towards the center. Make at least two complete overlapping passes for each layer. Use a hard tooth garden rake to rake out any unevenness. Try spreading material with the rake turned upside down (teeth pointing up).

When finished with the base, it should be very smooth and flat. Put a straight edge (screed guide or screed board) flat on the surface. There should be no more than ?" (1cm maximum) gap anywhere along the straight edge and the base.

Slope and Grade is important to ensure proper run-off. It is best to plan at least a ¼" (6mm) per foot drop, not to exceed ½" (12mm) per foot.

EDGE RESTRAINT INSTALLATION

PAVE EDGE® not only holds the pavers, but the bedding sand as well.

Installing PAVE EDGE® BEFORE Laying Pavers
Over years of construction experience we found it easier to install edging ahead of time, especially curved areas.

Establish design perimeter using inverted spray paint and chalk line, by finding center point of one dimension, create a perpendicular line using 3-4-5 triangle method, and measuring from line. Place PAVE EDGE® along perimeter. Spike edging so that the chalk line remains visible. On straight runs and gradual curves use PAVE EDGE® RIGID and spike no more than 3' apart with 10" (25cm) long x (3/8)" (1cm) diameter smooth steel landscape spikes (available at most building supply stores). For tighter curves use PAVE EDGE® FLEXIBLE, spiking each back support.

PAVE EDGE® RIGID can be used to create tighter curves. Use a hacksaw, cut the backside to make either an inside or outside radius. Cuts can be straight or V-shaped. We suggest making cuts every 6"-8".

Installing PAVE EDGE® AFTER Laying Pavers
This method is beneficial where there are two parallel sides. Install one side before pavers are laid, then work pattern to opposite side. Finish pattern with full pavers, where possible. This will reduce the amount of marking and cutting required.

Once pavers have been laid, PAVE EDGE® can be installed. Using a trowel, cut straight down the side of the pavers into the sand and down to the base, then pull back the sand. Be careful not to disrupt the base material. Place the edging flat onto the base, push the PAVE EDGE® frost heave lip under the sand (between the bedding sand and the gravel base), using a hammer to tap against the back of the PAVE EDGE® until the edging is tight to the pavers. Spike the edging into place. It is recommended to toenail the spike slightly into the pavement area to ensure a tight fit. Pound the spikes in until the head of the spike is touching the edging (Do not drive the spike through the edging.

JOINING SECTIONS OF PAVE EDGE®

Connect sections of PAVE EDGE® with the 6" long, round, connector pipe by inserting it into the inner cavity. Each piece of PAVE EDGE® comes with a connector pipe.

BEDDING SAND

NOTE: Cover sand when not using, it is important to work with dry sand.

Do not attempt to level any area or surface irregularities in the base with the sand bedding. This will result in an uneven surface and unwanted settling.

Lay screed guides (1" (25mm) O.D. metal pipe, 1" thick strips of wood or other suitable rigid 1" guide) 4' to 6' apart and parallel. Work from side to side in 10' sections: moving rails as each section is screeded. Use a 6'-8' long 2"x 6" screed board to spread sand evenly and strike off excess. DO NOT walk on screeded sand. Do not worry about voids that screed guides have left after removal. Fill guide voids with sand and trowel flat as you are laying the pavers.

LAYING THE PAVERS

Starting from a permanent edge such as a house, driveway, or a piece of installed PAVE EDGE® , lay pavers one to two rows at a time working from right to left, then left to right. Set the pavers lightly onto the sand, never press or hammer in. Be sure to allow 6" (15cm) to install PAVE EDGE® on open sides later.

If starting with PAVE EDGE® as a starting point, run a string line across the front of the laying edge every 4' or so. If there are some pavers lagging behind, go back about 3 rows, and using a small pry bar, wedge between the pavers and pry the pavers forward until they are in line again. Do not worry too much about gaps at this point; gaps should even out during tamping later.

Many different laying patterns are possible, but herringbone provides the best surface interlock. Set the pavers hand tight, but DO NOT use a hammer to adjust the pavers or set them. If you are doing the project over a period of a couple of days, cover with plastic overnight to keep dry in case of rain.

Do not lay pavers over the 6" (15cm) extended base area where PAVE EDGE® is to be set later.

CUTTING THE PAVERS

If any pavers need to be cut, mark the cuts with a marker and cut with a diamond blade masonry saw or splitter. PAVE EDGE® can be installed after laying the pavers to reduce the amount of cutting. Allow for up to ¼" (6mm) gap between the cut paver and the PAVE EDGE® or permanent structure. You will fill this with sand later.

FINAL COMPACTION & FILLING THE JOINTS

NOTE: During this step the pavers will settle about ¼" during compaction to their final height (if 1" loose screeded sand has been used).

Now that the pavers have been laid and PAVE EDGE® is spiked in place, sweep debris from the surface. Using a vibratory plate compactor, 3 HP to 5 HP, make at least two overlapping passes over the pavers. Starting at the perimeter, work inward, overlapping each pass 2"-4". Make the second pass at a 45º angle to the first. The compaction will accomplish the following:

• Levels all the pavers
• Compacts the bedding sand course
• Forces sand up into the joint

Repeat passes until pavers are level and flat.

Using a DRY medium or coarse washed sand for the joints, spread a thin uniform layer of jointing sand over the surface. Use a stiff bristle street broom and sweep back and forth over the entire pavement until sand has stopped falling into joints.

Alternating between compacting and sweeping, continue to work the material into the joints. You are finished when joints no longer open up after a pass is made with the plate compactor. It is important that joints are completely filled with sand. The number of passes this process takes is mostly dependant on how dry the joint sand is. This process can be accomplished in as few as 2-3 passes with compactor and broom or in excess of 10 + if you have damp sand.

Sweep off all excess sand and backfill outside edges with top soil and sod or seed (Be sure to water freshly seeded or sod areas regularly).

CONGRATULATIONS!

You have now installed a maintenance free patio or walkway pavement. Your efforts can be enjoyed for a long time to come.